Grey Wethers Stone Circle Dartmoor Devon UK (© Simon Tranter Photography)

Belstone to Taw Marsh.

Having left home a bit later than planned on Friday afternoon, I hit the traffic heading for the Westcountry on the A303 which added 1.5hours to the journey. Reaching the carpark and shouldering packs we set off as the sun started setting and the temperature dropped. A short walk-in lead us to a great spot by the river Taw. The new shelter went up without too much faff (a few practice pitches at home helped!), and the stove went on for dinner. The night was clear and the recent new moon meant star watching was enjoyed by all, along with banter about possible nearby Jaguar kills

Taw Marsh to East River Dart.

As it turned out the only bother from any animals was on Saturday morning when the camp was invaded by Dartmoor Ponies. One of which had decided that, out of all the grass on Dartmoor the stuff under my new Trailstar was the tastiest!

Wild Camping at Taw Marsh (© Simon Tranter Photography)

We packed up and headed up hill on the well worn path towards a stone circle which sits on the shoulder between Little Hound Tor and Hound Tor. The views from here are good, but the weekends warm weather had unfortunately brought in the haze as well. We headed off to Hound Tor, followed by Wild Tor then across the small valley and up to Watern Tor.

White Moor Stone Circle (© Simon Tranter Photography)

Granite outcrop formations at Watern Tor (© Simon Tranter Photography)

The Thurlstone at Watern Tor (© Simon Tranter Photography)

Nigel showing his Jedi stream drinking skills using the iStraw.

After a short time photographing and filming we headed off along a boundary wall around Great, then Little Varracombe, and up to Sittaford Tor before dropping down to the Grey Wethers Stone Circle. I have been meaning to visit this stone circle of a few years, so it was nice to finally see it, I will return when the light is better one day!

Grey Wethers Stone Circle (© Simon Tranter Photography)

Grey Wethers Stone Circle (© Simon Tranter Photography)

From Grey Wethers we headed south to find a leat that contours around the 460m mark, but things quickly got ugly with rough knee-high tussocks, so we climbed steeply to a stile, over a wall and marched off across the mainly dry, crunchy bog towards Sandy Hole Pass. After dropping down and crossing the river to avoid Broad Marsh, we hopped back across and followed the East River Dart northwards to find a sheltered riverside camp.

MLD Cuben Fibre Trailstar on Dartmoor

The sun warmed and dried the tarp, but the temperature fell quickly at night, later causing a light ground frost. But the vast amount of food I had and the fluffy new quilt I just finished kept me toasty.

East River Dart to Belstone.

In the morning, after waiting for me to stop faffing while breaking camp, we squelched our way north across the Teign Head and up the very dry Whitehorse Hill.

Whitehorse Hill Peat Pass Dartmoor (© Simon Tranter Photography)

A few different video shots of us walking through the Peat Pass then a good track to Hangingstone Hill.  After admiring the 360-degree views we followed the stony tracks to the ford over the River Taw and up to Oke Tor which was busy with more scouts and day walkers enjoying the sunshine. The last climb up Higher Tor I was really feeling the lack of fitness from not doing much walking or running recently. The views were good, but a lot more hazy than last time I was up here. Finally after crossing the Irishman’s Wall we dropped back down to Belstone to begin the drive home. On the drive home I stopped off at the wonderful Otter Valley Dairy for some Banofee ice cream while watching the cows that supplied the milk that morning graze the fields.

Thanks to Nigel and Graham for the banter and good humor all weekend. I will post a link to Nigel’s video when it’s finished.

Update:

Below is the video put together by Nigel, he runs navigation courses in the New Forest so go and take a looksie!

Dartmoor March 2012

Glyntawe to Sinc Giedd.

Setting off after lunch it took us 3 hours to get to Glyntawe, and after paying £3/day parking we left the car in the Dan-yr-Ogof campsite. Packs shouldered we headed behind the campsite, following the zig-zagging path up the steep slope and past a disused quarry.

View up the valley towards Fan Gyhirych from Glyntawe in Powys Wales (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

We were soon up on the moor and following the well worn and surprisingly dry path through an area littered with shake holes.

After a couple of miles we found the strange valley of the upper Afon Giedd where the river flows until it hits an outcrop of limestone and disappears into it’s own bed at Sinc Giedd or Swallow Hole. The weather forecast was dry and there was no risk of the narrow valley flooding, so we found a good pitch in the bottom on a flat piece of ground next to the river.

Wild camping near to Sinc Giedd or the Swallow Hole in Black Mountain (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

Overnight the sky cleared and I spend some time star gazing up at the moonless sky while lying under my tarp.

Sinc Giedd to Llyn y Fan Fawr.

The next morning after breaking camp we explored the valley until it’s abrupt end when the river disappears into the ground, apparently to re-appear down in the Dan-yr-Ogof caves.

Sinc Giedd where the Afon Giedd drops underground and into a cave system (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

Sinc Giedd where the Afon Giedd drops underground and into a cave system (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

We headed west picking our way over a couple of shallow and boggy valleys. Then contouring and dropping down to cross the Afon Twrch, which forms the boundary between the counties of Powys and Carmarthenshire.

Looking down the Afon Twrch valley in the Black Mountain area of Brecon Beacons (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

Sphagnum moss in Black Mountain (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

Next we climbed the slopes of Garreg Las, zig-zagging the way up through areas of wet bog and bouldery scree. Stopping to drink in the view over the land we had just crossed it seemed a fitting time for some lunch.

View from Esgair Hir in the Black Mountain (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

Re-fuelled we climbed to the top of the hill and to the top of one of two giant stone cairns. The views west and south opened up as far as the Gower and beyond to Pembrokeshire.

View west from Twyn-Swnd towards Moel Gornach in the Black Mountain (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

We dropped down the northern shoulder and then crossed the broad valley, climbing the long steep western slopes of Bannau Sir Gaer. Eventually we reached the spectacular cliffs overlooking Llyn y Fan Fach.We continued along the ridge following the Beacons Way and passing the first people since leaving Glyntawe. The views just keep getting better here as Picws Du is climbed.

Llyn y Fan Fach in the Black Mountain area of Brecon Beacons (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

Llyn y Fan Fach in the Black Mountain (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

We dropped down into the bwlch and climbed up to Fan Foel where the view back along the ridge is fantastic. Shortly after crossing the border back into Powys county, the view east opens up right the way across to the Central Beacons and Pen y Fan.

View East from Fan-foel towards Peny Fan and the Central Beacons (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

We continued up and on to the highest point in the Black Mountain Fan Brycheiniog, where Nigel’s video camera battery died. Figuring the best pitch would be down by Llyn y Fan Fawr we dropped steeply down to it’s shores via Bwlch Giedd. I found a brilliant pitch on a small finger of land jutting out into the lake before cooking up a big meal to replenish the energy stores.

Wild camping on the shoes of Llyn y Fan Fawr in the Black Mountain (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

Wild camping on the shoes of Llyn y Fan Fawr in the Black Mountain (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

Llyn y Fan Fawr to Glyntawe.

Over night the sky cleared again and I hoped for a good sunrise. This time I was lucky and the sun rose behind Pen y Fan as I looked out under the tarp.

Sunrise over Pen y Fan from a wild camp in the Black Mountain (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

I got up in the cold wind and ran around taking photographs before breakfast.

Sunrise over Peny Fan and the Central Beacons from the shores of Llyn y Fan Fawr (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

Fan Brycheiniog rises from the western edge of Llyn y Fan Fawr

Wild camping on the shoes of Llyn y Fan Fawr in the Black Mountain (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

Rocks on the shore of Llyn y Fan Fawr in the Black Mountain (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

After breaking camp we headed off down the Beacons Way which runs beneith the Fan Hir ridge and past a very pretty waterfall.

The Beacons Way footpath runs along the bottom of the Fan Hir ridge (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

Waterfall on the Beacons Way below the Fan Hir ridge in the Black Mountain (Simon Tranter simontranter.com)

The sun was warming us up nicely. After eventually picking our way down the hill, we tramped the half-mile back along the road to the car, happy and tired. You can see the photos in the Wales Gallery over on the main site.

Nigel put together a video of the trip please go and take a look.

***geek alert*** If you are interested in what I carried for the trip take a look at my gear list on Geargrams.com a really useful little site which breaks down the weights and even gives you a pie-chart!

North Hessary Tor to Great Mis Tor.

A nice easy start to the walk up the well worn track towards the TV station mast revealed a view back over Princetown, and a cracking view down to Plymouth and the Tamar estuary. I grabbed my camera to capture the scene, only to realise that in my hurry I had forgotten to charge the batteries on the camera! After some swearing I decided to run back to the car rather than lug the dead weight around. “Oh well, I will just have to enjoy the experience and snap a couple of shots on the iPhone” – what an idiot!

I rewarded myself with a quick break and snack once I had got back up North Hessary Tor. I can see why they use this hill for a TV mast, the views are stunning. We continued down to Rundlestone and followed the track up towards Great Mis Tor. A larger outcrop which has been called one of the grandest hills in Devon, it lies on the edge of the Merrivale Range. A shame really that it seemed to have become a campsite, littered with tents and youngsters, which I can only guess as part of DofE or Ten Tors training. Never mind, I took a bearing for Cocks Hill and headed out over Mistor Marsh. Found a pitch with a view over the River Walkham and watched the setting sun as the water boiled for the home-made dehydrated Chilli.

Camping in the Wilds of Dartmoor

Cocks Hill, Broad Hole and Beardown Tors.

In the morning the tarptent had a lot less condensation than the last trip, I think the light breeze helped to keep it ventilated. I gorged on home-made fruit cake given to me the day before, packed up and set off down to cross the River Walkham. Navigating over Cocks Hill to meet the footpath at White Barrow and then crossing the valley to the East and up on to Conies Down where we met some Dartmoor ponies enjoying the sunshine.

Conies Down looking back to North Hessary and Great Mis Tors, Dartmoor

A little further on and we crossed the next valley, Broad Hole, where two tributaries flow into the Cowsic River. By now the sun was beating down and the cool fresh water provided some nice refreshment.

Broad Hole, Dartmoor

After crossing the valley we entered the boundary wall and followed the path around the flanks of Lydford Tor. Then picked a way across some rough ground and up Beardown Tors with more grand views where we stopped for an early lunch. The plan was to then head around the head of the valley and down through Wistman’s Wood, but due to heat and lack of fitness we decided to take the path down through Beardown Farm and back to Two Bridges. All that was left was the long plod back along the B3212 to Princetown, which seemed to take forever in the early afternoon sun. A quick call in to visit some friends in Exmouth on the way home rounded off the weekend nicely.

The pictures above were all taken on my iPhone, but please don’t let that put you off, have a look at the Devon Gallery over on the main site.

View over Windermere and distant fells from Brant Fell in the Lake District Cumbria

A quick jaunt up Brant Fell near to Windermere on a nice evening to scrabble around on the rocky outcrops, I found this view north over the lake and up towards some of the bigger hills. Realising the sun was about to go behind a bank of cloud I ran around in the cold wind to find the best viewpoint, and managed to capture the last direct rays of light grazing the land and adding texture to the rock.

Twilight at Kirkstone Pass looking down towards Ambleside in The Lake District

On the way back to the cottage after a cloudy afternoon around Ullswater I spotted the promise of a beautiful twilight. Stopping at the Kirkstone Pass Inn I quickly searched for a suitable foreground, luckly with all the recent rains a small stream was deep enough to reflect the deep blue sky overhead as the last colours started to fade.

You can see the rest of the photographs from the trip in the Lake District Gallery.

Jasper National Park.

Jasper National Park is larger than Banff, but with fewer facilities it felt quieter.

A couple of days of cloudy and sometimes wet weather, meant that we spent some time chilling in Spooner’s Cafe in Jasper town. Also if you are ever there check out the Patricia Street Deli, they make the best sandwiches and the cranberry mayo is amazing!

Not put off we spent an afternoon on the drive up to Maligne Lake. Stopping to look at the Maligne Canyon, a 50 meter deep limestone gorge, which is so narrow it would be possible to jump across in places. Another 16km up the road was Medicine Lake. The guide book describes it as a sinking lake that has holes in the bottom and acts like a plug-less bathtub. In winter when the run-off slows, the lake drains and shrinks to the size of a small stream. Further on is Maligne Lake, a 14 mile long body of water surrounded by snowy peaks. A stunning place, but with heavy cloud all the photos I took where very mediocre.

The next day we drove up to Miette Hot Springs and walked up along Sulphur Creek and up to Sulphur Pass. Unfortunately we had to turn back just before the pass because there was still too much snow on the ground, which is not easy to negotiate while just wearing trail shoes. The weather started to clear on the way back to town, so I decided to go up to Patricia and Pyramid Lakes.

Pyramid Lake looking towards Hawk Mountain. Jasper National Park

Pyramid Lake was beautiful, in the shadow of Pyramid Mountain just 15min drive north from Jasper. We stopped off at the southern end where a sandy beach lined the shore. In the height of summer this would be a wonderful spot.

Patricia Lake looking towards the Indian Ridge in Jasper National Park

In contrast the rock shore of Patricia Lake kept me occupied while the light danced along the snow covered Indian Ridge in the background. The sun went behind some cloud so I explored the Aspen grove between the two lakes.

I have wanted to photograph Quaking Aspens ever since I discovered Christopher Burkett’s photography many years ago. One of my favourite photographers, he manages to capture amazing luminance in his images.

Quaking Aspen or Populus Tremuloides in Jasper National Park

The wind died down, and the light was luminous, the leaves were still young and translucent, and the soft light seemed to wrap itself around each trunk. Perfect!

Quaking Aspen or Populus Tremuloides in Jasper National Park

Mount Robson Provincial Park.

The next day it was time to start driving back to Vancouver. We took the Yellowhead Highway west from Jasper and soon entered Mount Robson Provincial Park. With the intent to stop off and take a look at the highest point in the Canadian Rockies. The massive south face suddenly became visable to the right and wow what a sight! 3000m from base to summit in clear morning sunlight, it was breathtaking.

Mt Robson 3954m the highest point in Canadian Rockies

We waved goodbye to the Rockies and headed south for Kamloops, then west to Cache Creek in the Thompson Valley where we spent the night.

The Sea to Sky Highway.

The next day we set off towards Lillooet and drove down the Sea to Sky Highway 99. The road to Pemberton was sublime, it contoured around mountains up and down passes with amazing scenery. After over a week of very scenic, but mainly boring straight roads it felt a bit like a revelation.

Whistler was crowded, so we carried on and found a campsite near Squamish. The next day was typically cloudy and drizzly, so we went along to Shannon Falls.

Shannon Falls 335m high waterfall near Squamish

Afterwards a surprisingly easy drive back to Vancouver and some more sightseeing before the flight home the following day.

You can see all these photographs and more in the Canada Gallery over on the main website.

]]> http://simontranter.visualsociety.com/2010/09/canada-part-4/feed/ 0 http://simontranter.visualsociety.com/2010/09/canada-part-3/ http://simontranter.visualsociety.com/2010/09/canada-part-3/#comments Mon, 13 Sep 2010 07:40:29 +0000 Simon Tranter http://simontranter.visualsociety.com/?p=266 The third and final post on the Canada trip. Here are links so you can read the first and second posts.

Icefields Parkway.

The plan for the day was to drive up the Icefields Parkway all the way to Jasper. First we stopped at Vermillion Lakes just outside Banff town, a stunning view across the lakes and to Mt Rundle and Sulphur mountain.

Vermilion Lakes and mount Rundle Banff National Park Alberta Canada

After a few photos we continued north on Route 1, back to Lake Louise where the Icefields Parkway begins. Ahead of us lay 230km of stunning scenic highway running parallel to the Continental Divide. Completed in 1940, the Icefields Parkway passes within sight of 7 icefields and 25 glaciers.

Bow Lake along the Icefields Parkway Banff National Park

Our first stop was Bow Lake below the Waputik mountains and the Wapta Icefield. At 1920m above sea level the lake was still frozen. Next we stopped to eat lunch at Bow Summit Pass, the highest point along the Parkway. The upper carpark was blocked off my deep snow, so we followed the longer trail to the viewpoint. After 30mins of tramping though 2 feet deep snow we got to the overlook for Peyto Lake.

Peyto Lake named after Bill Peyto viewed from Bow Summit. Icefields Parkway, Banff National Park.

Wow, the view was breath-taking! Peyto Lake was still mostly frozen as well, but we could see the brilliant blue colour of the water. The Lake is named after Bill Peyto who was an early trail guide and trapper in the area. From Bow Summit we drove down the valley to Mistaya Canyon, a 0.5km walk from the road. Formed by the Mistaya River flowing from Peyto Lake, the river carves down through the limestone on it’s way to join the North Saskatchewan River.

Mistaya Canyon Icefields Parkway, Banff National Park.

Across the North Saskatchewan River Crossing and then climbing again all the way to the Sunwapta Pass. We passed Mount Athabasca and into Jasper National Park, we stopped off at the Icefields Centre. From here we could see the Columbia Icefield and tumbling dow from it, the Athabasca Glacier. The cloud had rolled in, and needing to get to Jasper we carried on down the Sunwapta valley. After setting up the tent in Jasper and eating dinner we headed back down the Icefields Parkway for a few sunset pictures.

Mount Hardisty and Mount Kerkeslin along the Icefields Parkway, Jasper National Park.

Pyramind Mountain and Anthabasca River. Icefields Parkway, Jasper.

You can see these and more pictures from Canada in the Canada Gallery on the main site.

Banff National Park.

After driving through the quiet and stunning Yoho National Park, we followed Route 1 up and over the Kicking Horse Pass. At 1647m it marks the crossing from British Columbia into Alberta and into Banff National Park. A few miles down the road we came across our first Black Bear foraging along the Railroad track that runs parallel with the road around 100m away.

Pulling into Lake Louise it was bitterly cold and started snowing, and after a few wet nights camping, we decided to head to Banff to find the cheapest Motel we could and dry out the gear.

Next morning we headed back up the Bow Valley towards Lake Louise with glimpses of a light snow covering up the mountains.

The Sawback Range along the Bow Valley. Banff National Park Canada

To avoid the crowds at Lake Louise we walked to Fairview Lookout, not easy as there was still quite a bit of snow on the ground. The elevated view showed that most of the Lake was still frozen from winter, but the famous iridescent blue-green water was still visible.

Lake Louise still partially frozen in June. Banff National Park Canada

Further up the road is Moraine Lake, wow! The guidebook says “Moraine Lake always astounds even the jaded” and it didn’t disappoint. Situated in the Valley of Ten Peaks, the view takes your breath away, partly because it sits at 1885m above sea level. I climbed the moraine at the head of the lake and waited for some sunshine. Instead a snow shower blew down the valley, so I grabbed a few shots before it got too bad. On the way back to the car I came across some Pika, a small rodent related to Rabbits.

Approaching snow storm at Moraine Lake and the Valley of Ten Peaks in Banff National Park Canada

Next day, a soak Banff Hot Springs and cable-car trip up Sulphur Mountain gave great views, but the grey light didn’t produce any interesting pictures. The next post will be on the drive up to Jasper via the famous Icefields Parkway, you can read it here. You can see more pictures taken in Canada here.

Vancouver and British Columbia.

Burrard Street in Downtown Vancouver

Canada Place convention centre and cruise ship terminal Downtown Vancouver

After spending a couple of days in Vancouver overcoming jet lag, we took a whale watching trip out into the Strait of Georgia. Definitely a must-do for anyone in the area wanting to see some wildlife. After seeing California Sea Lions and Bald Eagles we caught up with a pod of Killer Whales on their migration up the coast towards Alaska for the summer breading season, magical.

Killer Whales or Orcinus Orca off the Gulf Islands in Strait of Georgia BC

We hired a car and started the long drive across British Columbia, first stop Osoyoos in the Okanagan Valley. Un-suprisingly for BC it was cloudy and quite wet. But the southern Okanagan area is actually desert and full of fruit orchards and vineyards. We camped at Haynes Point Provincial Park, a sandy spur that juts out into Osoyoos Lake just south of town. I made use of the misty twilight as the relentless rain subsided for the night.

Osoyoos Lake surrounded by misty mountains at twilight. Haynes Point Provincial Park Okanagan Valley BC

The next couple of days where also cloudy with rain showers and I didn’t take many photographs. After driving up the scenic Okanagan Valley and joining Route 1 we entered the first National Park, Mount Revelstoke. A short boardwalk loops around some swampy ground to form the Skunk Cabbage Trail, which luckily were not too pungent.

Skunk Cabbage Trail is a 1.2km boadwalk through valley bottom wetland swamp in Mount Revelstoke National Park BC

After driving through Glacier National Park we spent the night in Golden. Next came Yoho National Park and the Rocky mountains. Yoho meaning ‘awe’ in Cree certainly describes the Park, with breath-taking scenery all around. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t playing ball again, and none of the campsites were open for the season yet. We drove up to Emerald Lake, stopping at the Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River on the way.

Natural Bridge Falls in Yoho National Park BC Canada

You can see these photographs along with others in the new Canada Gallery over on the main site. You can also read Part 2 and Part 3 of this trip.

Now I don’t want this to turn into a backpacking gear blog, I have been planning to do a short piece on the Lunar Duo as I found it difficult to get much information about it before I bought it, so I will do a separate post with more information about it.

Belstone to Yes Tor and High Willhays.

After leaving late, and getting caught in the usual traffic on the A303 around Stonehenge, we arrived at the charming village of Belstone on the edge of Dartmoor around 4pm. Out of the village on the Tarka Trail to the west and through a gate lead us out onto Belstone Common and a view of the main objective for the day, Yes Tor and High Willhays.

The sun was beating down and it was around 25c. We followed the easy gravel tracks down to Cullever Steps and the East Oakmount River’s water was tempting. Following the tracks we climbed the sholder of Rowtor and into Okehampton MOD Range. The reward was the view towards Oke Tor and Steeperton Tor to the southeast.

Oke Tor and Steeperton Tor Dartmoor

Next was the sholder of West Mill Tor with its jagged summit passing to our north the final climb up to Yes Tor came reasonably easily and views back to where we had come were excellent, if a little hazy.

Yes Tor 619m (2031ft) is the second highest peak in Dartmoor

The view from Yes Tor to West Mill Tor Dartmoor

To the south lies High Willhays, the highest point on Dartmoor, an easy half mile walk along the wide ridge. The views to the south and into the remotest areas of Dartmoor are stunning,. But the outcrop itself is far less impressive than Yes Tor, and doesn’t even feel as high when you are there.

High Willhays 621 m (2,037 ft) the highest point in Dartmoor

We left the range tracks and headed for Dinger Tor and found a pitch on the other side. The sun went down and painted the sky with a soft pink. The temperature dropped and dew started forming on the flysheet.

SMD Lunar Duo tarptent, as the sun sets over Dinger Tor, Dartmoor.

Oke Tor and Belstone Common.

In the morning I tried to dry the tent as much as possible before giving up and stuffing it back in my pack. We headed off on pathless terrain to the southeast and forded Brim Brook relatively easily. Luckily the recent dry weather had meant the boggy ground Dartmoor is famous for was so far dry, I hoped it would stay like this as we headed up the un-named mound. We arrived at the very rounded summit grid ref 593873 and took a bearing for where the army tracks meet on Okement Hill. The ground was dry, but deep grass and tussocks still made it tough work in the rising temperatures. A rest on Okement Hill and removal of crawling ticks was a relief. Following the track east the views opened up to the north again with Steeperton Tor, Oke Tor and Cosdon Hill.

Continuing along the now tarmac section to the northeast and then the path north along the broad ridge we reached Oke Tor. Not as high as many of the surrounding hills it has an impressive granite Tor, it made a good stop for an early lunch and a bit of light scrambling/bouldering fun.

Oke Tor on the edge of Okehampton Range Dartmoor

Carrying on along the broad ridge and climbing up to Higher Tor was hot work. I took more pictures at Irishman’s Wall where a grand view back to yesterdays hills provided the background. After clambering over Belstone Tor we headed down the hill back towards the Tarka Trail and Belstone village. Feeling pretty tired from the heat and not doing any long walks recently, we got back to the car and headed straight to Okehampton services to cool down with an ice lolly.

To see some other pictures taken on the trip take a look at the Devon Gallery on my website.